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We are at Warley National Model Railway exhibition with some very special offers!

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Model Rail issue 320 is now available!

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Black Friday Offer – 20% Off

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Choose the right subscription for you…

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MODEL RAIL’S EXCLUSIVE ‘PWM’ – ON SALE NOW!

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Model Rail issue 310 is now available!

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Model Rail issue 309 is now available!

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Model Rail issue 308 is available now!

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Model Rail issue 307 is on sale now!

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Our new Sentinels are now available!

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Model Rail 306 on sale now!

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How To Build A Model Railway now available

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Model Rail issue 305 now available

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Model Rail issue 304 now available

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Model Rail issue 302 now available

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Model Rail issue 303 now available

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The essentials you need for building a model rail layout

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Building a baseboard

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A beginners’ guide to laying track

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WIN A WEATHERED FARISH CLASS 31

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WIN! A HORNBY CLASS 91 – WORTH £217.99

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Hattons Model Money

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The Fly

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Captain Leigh!

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Moreton-in-Marsh memories

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A bridge too far

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Going for a P…. class

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Countrystyle

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Let’s blog again

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‘N’ Gauge Progress

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Choosing the right location for your train set

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How to choose which model train set to build

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If you’re heading to Warley National Model Railway Exhibition on the 25th and 26th November, you can find a selection of our exclusive Model Rail trains on the Kernow Model Rail Centre, **stand** **C11**, with some **exclusive show offers.**

With selected discounted models ranging from the Backmann USA to Rapido 16XX, come find us to take advantage of these great deals!

Not heading to the show? View our extensive range of models and buy online :a[**here.**]{href='http://www.modelrailoffers.co.uk/homepage?utm_source=display&amp;utm_medium=bws&amp;utm_campaign=bau_mr&amp;utm_content=content_warley_article' }

In the December 2023 issue of Model Rail we bring a classic to life with our step by step guides to building the station from ‘The Titfield Thunderbolt’ as well as the surrounding area. Once you’ve built that you will need something to run on it, and we review Rapido Trains UK’s ‘The Titfield Thunderbolt’ train pack to help you decide if it is worth your money.

With Christmas right around the corner, right now you’re probably thinking of what to get the modeller in your life. Never fear, we have the solution with our Christmas gift guide, providing you with 18 ideas that they are going to love.

Prepare for the big event with our Warley exhibition preview, plan your New Year spending with Bachmann’s winter announcements and as always we feature two superb layouts from around the country.

:a[Read Model Rail issue 320 for 99p when you subscribe and get access to exclusive rewards.]{href='https://members.model-rail.co.uk/membership?utm_source=referral&amp;utm_medium=bws&amp;utm_campaign=bau_modelrail&amp;utm_content=content_latestissuearticle' target='_blank' rel='noreferrer noopener'}

Treat yourself to 20% off Model Rail with our limited time Black Friday offer!

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Model Rail is packed full of the latest new model reviews, expert 'how to' projects and inspirational layouts. There's loads to fire your imagination, with great track plans you can build and inspiration from the real railway, not to mention Model Rail's exclusive range of model locomotives.

Make the most of this Black Friday offer and get 20% off Model Rail annual subscriptions. Plus, get FREE UK delivery to your door every month. If you’re purchasing as a gift, you’ll have the option to send an e-card to let them know their gift is on the way.

Our magazine is your ultimate railway companion, we’ll give you all the latest new model reviews, ‘how to’ projects and inspirational layouts. From buying a first model train set through to museum standard modelling we’ll give you all the tools and information you need to indulge your hobby.

A Model Rail Subscription enhances your experience of being part of a railway modelling community. Our digital Subscription offers exclusive content, Member-only rewards and discounts, full access to previous issues and so much more via the app and Members' website!

## **Choose the right subscription for you...** {#h-choose-the-right-subscription-for-you}

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Instant access to all content via the Model Rail App and Members' Website

Read or listen on your tablet, phone or computer

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## **Download the Model Rail app!** {#h-download-the-model-rail-app}

The Model Rail app is the perfect way to enjoy your subscription on the go. You can have all your issues stored in one place for easy reading and enjoy handpicked rewards!

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Railway modelling as a hobby has never been so well supported.

If you are returning to the hobby now after a gap of, say, 15 years, you will be amazed at how many products are now available to add to the enjoyment of the hobby. Many firms now offer services for modellers that may be time and cost effective, enabling you to get on the with the part of the hobby you enjoy the most.

It is a great time to start railway modelling in a number of scales because, for example, ‘O’ gauge locomotives, track and rolling stock and accessories are becoming more affordable and available.

If you look at plan books from a decade ago or so, most baseboards were based on a 6ft by 4ft, or 8ft by 18in board using 2in by 1in planed timber, topped with plywood. Today, all sorts of materials are used, including hard foam baseboards and baseboard kits. If you really want to avoid making your own baseboard, consider commissioning a specialist baseboard building company to make it for you. Various layout building firms attend the big model railway shows and it is worth talking to their staff and looking at samples of their products. Look at the different construction techniques and choose the company that suits your requirements the best.

The basic tools you’ll need to make a layout are readily available and relatively inexpensive. Having the right tools makes things easier and increases the chances for success. They last a long while, and companies such as :a[DCCconcepts]{href='https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=DCCconcepts&amp;i=toys&amp;language=en_GB&amp;linkCode=sl2&amp;linkId=84694e5e28bef229edde412fe86ee5a5&amp;tag=subs-affiliatearticle05-21&amp;ref=as_li_ss_tl' target='_blank' rel='noopener noreferrer'}, :a[Expo Tools]{href='https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=Expo+Tools&amp;i=toys&amp;language=en_GB&amp;linkCode=sl2&amp;linkId=b20c3a0e7d84908adcc0f77cce68ef37&amp;tag=subs-affiliatearticle05-21&amp;ref=as_li_ss_tl' target='_blank' rel='noopener noreferrer'} and :a[Gaugemaster]{href='https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=Gaugemaster&amp;i=toys&amp;language=en_GB&amp;linkCode=sl2&amp;linkId=fcb6b00125ae490a5ce7ab2db1aba326&amp;tag=subs-affiliatearticle05-21&amp;ref=as_li_ss_tl' target='_blank' rel='noopener noreferrer'} have recently been developing useful tools such as sprue cutters and pick-up and grab tools.

Electrostatic grass planting tools are sold by a number of scenic manufacturers, and have revolutionised the way we ‘plant’ grass on our layouts.

Model Rail magazine is Britain's brightest and most informative magazine for model railway fans. We cover every stage of the hobby, from buying a first model train set right through to museum standard fine-scale modelling in a lively style that encourages readers to get involved in the world's greatest hobby. Model Rail magazine is full of helpful tips, advice including model train layouts, details on model train sets. If you’re building your first model rail layout, or your 50th, subscribe to Model Rail for invaluable advice every month. :a[Click here to find out more about subscribing.]{href='https://www.greatmagazines.co.uk/model-rail-magazine?utm_campaign=bau_modelrail&amp;utm_content=contenttestlink&amp;utm_medium=bws&amp;utm_source=dynamic' target='_blank' rel='noopener noreferrer'}

Track plan books are still popular and new ones appear from time to time. In addition, you can buy model railway planning software from the following sources: :a[Anyrail]{href='https://www.anyrail.com/en' target='_blank' rel='noopener noreferrer'}; :a[Winrail]{href='https://www.winrail.com/' target='_blank' rel='noopener noreferrer'}; :a[www.trackplanning.com]{href='https://www.trackplanning.com/' target='_blank' rel='noopener noreferrer'}; and :a[www.templot.com]{href='https://www.templot.com/' target='_blank' rel='noopener noreferrer'}. Some of these companies offer a free download of a trial version of the software so you can try before you buy.

Train control is a lot more fun today than it was a couple of decades ago because DCC (Digital Control Command) is now mainstream. DCC systems range from simple to complex. There are inexpensive starter DCC systems for small layouts, and DCC control is now also available in wireless form. Many modellers who were initially reluctant to try DCC have taken the plunge and would now not consider going back to DC operation. Uninterrupted lighting and sound on the models are just two of the advantages of DCC operation. It adds yet another dimension to railway modelling. Just a few years ago we were content with models that ran fairly well. Now we expect so much more.

Locomotives in ‘N’ and ‘OO’ gauges are now available in ready-to-run form, either ‘DCC ready’ (these need a decoder to be fitted but already have a pin connection ready to take the decoder), ‘DCC fitted’ (already fitted with a decoder) or ‘DCC sound’ (fitted with decoder, a sound chip and a loudspeaker).

Each year modelling firms add to the enormous range of scenic products in all scales, ranging from laser-cut vegetables to plug-in interior lighting in buildings. A few years ago, who would have thought that model trees would look so realistic, that grass would look like it has individual blades, and that it would be possible to buy grass mats that looked just like miniature turf?

The range and variety of detailing accessories now available for model railways in all of the popular scales is enormous. This is one area that we are so well catered for by both the main manufacturers and the model railway cottage industries. These accessories are available both in ready painted and ready assembled form, and as kits to be assembled/and or painted. New models appear on the market all the time, and most things that we would ever want to include on our layouts are now produced in miniature.

You may remember buildings as either being plastic kits from Airfix or card kits from Superquick. Today, the selection of available :a[buildings]{href='https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=model+rail+buildings&amp;i=toys&amp;language=en_GB&amp;linkCode=sl2&amp;linkId=58592f68f3196e070dea1f7b116f5bcf&amp;tag=subs-affiliatearticle05-21&amp;ref=as_li_ss_tl' target='_blank' rel='noopener noreferrer'} is so much bigger.

Various manufacturers now sell completed model buildings made out of resin. These ‘ready-to-plant’ buildings are nicely detailed and pre-painted. All that needs to be done is to plant them on the layout.

There are still lots of plastic kits available, and new ones are being released all the time. For example, Gaugemaster recently introduced its Fordhampton range.

Laser-cut card is one of the newer methods being used to create kits of buildings, fencing, bridges, windows, doors, plants and vegetables. Laser-cut card bridges show that the finished models can be delicate and highly detailed and robust at the same time.

During the last few years several companies have introduced kits of buildings that can be bought online then downloaded and printed at home with your PC and printer. The printed paper then needs to be stuck to cardboard as part of the assembly process. Model Railway Scenery, Scalescenes and Smart Models are just three of these internet-based enterprises that have expanded the growing range of building card kit.

Most of us enjoy certain parts of the hobby more than others, and today it is possible to commission a specialist firm to undertake the tasks that you don’t really enjoy. For example, if you want someone to fit a DCC decoder in your locomotive there are a number of firms offering that service.

Railway modelling has become less time consuming with the arrival of pre-weathered rolling stock, superbly finished ready-to-plant buildings and made-to-measure baseboards.

## Getting to know more {#h-getting-to-know-more}

There are still lots of model railway exhibitions in the UK where layouts can be viewed, demonstrations watched and bargains found! Such shows continue to reinforce the friendly community that surrounds the hobby and if you need a bit more support, join a model railway club to work alongside fellow enthusiasts.

There are many books, magazines and publications that cover all aspects of making model railways and the prototype railways, and the number continues to grow. These make research both enjoyable and informative.

Model Rail produces a good range of practical DVDs that demonstrate various aspects of model layout construction. We are also blessed with many DVDs about the real railways too, for when we’re looking for inspiration.

## Subscribe to Model Rail {#h-subscribe-to-model-rail}

Why not subscribe to Model Rail and get our advice and guides straight to your door every month? Getting the magazine delivered saves you time that can be better spent working on your model train set!

The baseboard is a fundamental part of any model rail layout, but how do you go about building one? DAVE LOWERY explains how to get started building your own baseboard.

Once you’ve decided you want to build your own model railway, and you’ve spent the time doodling plans for tracks and layouts, it’s time to think about a reliable baseboard.

A good baseboard is essential for a good layout. It forms the foundations for your track and, if it’s not right, your layout will be plagued by poor running. Therefore, we have to get it straight and true. We have to make it resilient to fluctuations in temperature and - if it’s going to be portable - reasonably easy to move from one place to another without the need for a  forklift truck.

For this project, I have used a traditional 2in by 1in softwood frame. For the baseboard top I’ve chosen the tried-and-trusted Sundeala board. This comes in pre-cut 4ft by 2ft sheets, and you can find it at hobby and craft stores, and some builders’ merchants, such as Jewson and Travis Perkins. These are all readily available materials that can be carried home in a small car, with only a few bits sticking out of the sunroof!

## Quality is important {#h-quality-is-important}

I have to say that most of the softwood on offer in DIY outlets today is pretty awful and is really only slightly better than balsa wood! If your budget can stretch to it, I recommend you invest in higher quality materials from a reputable timber merchant.

Take a set square and tape measure with you when buying timber, so that you can check that the material has been planed to a square edge and that the lengths and widths are true. Most wood is now sold in metric sizes, so an imperial measure will help if you need to make conversions to good old feet and inches!

## What tools will you need? {#h-what-tools-will-you-need}

You’ll need a basic array of tools for this project and, while I use power tools, ordinary hand tools will do the job just as well. A set square and a good tenon saw are essential, as is a drill and bits. A Stanley knife, a sharpened pencil and screwdrivers (or power driver) are also essential tools. A jigsaw with a fresh blade is a welcome luxury. You’ll also need a tube of PVA wood glue and a selection of screws.

## Find out more in Model Rail {#h-find-out-more-in-model-rail}

Every month, Model Rail magazine is packed full of the latest new model reviews, expert 'how to' projects and inspirational layouts. Whether you want to know how to build the best baseboard or which layout to choose, you’ll find everything you need in our pages. Why not subscribe, and get the mag delivered straight to your door every month?

There's loads to fire your imagination, with great track plans you can build and inspiration from the real railway, not to mention Model Rail's exclusive range of model locomotives.

## HOW TO DO IT: BUILD A BASEBOARD {#h-how-to-do-it-build-a-baseboard}

1.  Using the tape measure, carefully mark off exactly the length of wood required. Be sure to use a nice sharp pencil for a fine and clearly visible line.

2.  An essential tool is a carpenter’s set square. Not only is it useful for plumb lines, but also for making sure the joints are square during assembly.

3.  When you cut the wood, ensure that you work to the outside of your pencil line, not along the centre. I use a jigsaw for speed...

4.  ...but a trusty tenon saw does the job just as well. Hold the wood in a bench hook or vice and keep your arm straight and your body in line with the cut for best results.

5.  Always keep the wood tidy: do one cut at a time. After cutting, there will be a ragged edge that can be cleaned up with a Stanley knife, used carefully of course!

6.  Lay out the wood as you cut it, placing each part into the relevant position. This is where my plastic garden tables come in handy.

7.  Where the various cross-members intersect with the main spars, they’ll need to be slotted to provide a strong joint.

8.  Mark out the joint locations with the set square. Identify clearly which is the area of waste to be cut away.

9.  The jigsaw makes light work of cutting slots, although the bottom face will need nibbling away gradually, with care. Alternatively, you can use the tenon saw to cut the outer slots and the chisel to remove the rest.

10.  Be sure to check the joint is good by placing a piece of wood across the top of the joint to see if it’s flat.

11.  Pre-drill and countersink the holes in all the pieces that need to be joined together and lightly tighten the screws.

12.  Starting at one of the outer corners, load up the end of a cross-member with glue - a thin fillet is enough.

13.  Using the square held hard against the joint, power the screws home slowly, one at a time, until the joint is solid.

14.  Start to build up the main spars and then make them intersect with the cross-members.

15.  Again, at each joint, add glue, affix screws and use the square at the joint, making sure it’s all square while the screws are driven home.

16.  Down the centre of the frame is a piece of 2in by 1in timber, laid on its wider face. This provides a larger surface area where the Sundeala sheets are joined, ensuring a strong and reliable construction.

17.  Similarly, another piece of 2in by 1in is laid flat on at 90 degrees to the main spar, two thirds of the way down in order to support the piece of Sundeala going across the top of the frame.

18.  The legs can now be installed. They measure 39in long to give a good working height and are secured by screws through two parts of the frame.

19.  With the four legs fitted, the framework can be stood up to check for height. If it’s too high, the legs can be trimmed. Too low and you’ll have to start again!

20.  The Sundeala boards can now be placed onto the framework. Two side by side and one across the top.

21.  Once you’re happy that the boards and framework are square, drill holes in the Sundeala boards, apply PVA glue to the frame and secure with screws.

Taking the trestle leg method a little further, you can secure it to the framework with hinges. This will allow the legs to fold up or down - ideal for an exhibition layout. A folding cross-stay, again hinged, will lock the legs in position.

Adjustable feet will compensate for uneven floors, enabling the layout to be levelled and secured by simply screwing the feet up or down. These are available from hardware stores or :a[www.screwfix.com]{href='http://www.screwfix.com' target='_blank' rel='noopener noreferrer'}

### Subscribe to Model Rail {#h-subscribe-to-model-rail}

For more great guides on what to build and how to build them, :a[subscribe to Model Rail]{href='https://www.greatmagazines.co.uk/model-rail-magazine?utm_source=dynamic&amp;utm_medium=bws&amp;utm_campaign=bau_modelrail&amp;utm_content=contenttestlink' target='_blank' rel='noopener noreferrer'} and get the magazine delivered right to your door! Having the magazine delivered saves you time that can be better spend with your model trains - and, it’ll save you money.

Track laying is one of the most fundamental tasks for any railway modeller. DAVE LOWERY and GEORGE DENT offer a range of tips on how to get it right first time.

If you’re starting out with modelling, you might find laying the track impossible. But take time, use a few simple tools, and the task can become straightforward. Follow this simple guide, and there’s no reason why your track can’t look like a well manicured main line.

Well laid permanent way is essential for reliable operation, whether using prefabricated sections - colloquially known as ‘Setrack’ after Peco’s popular range - flexible or hand-built finescale track. Keeping everything flat and level without distortion is crucial, and careless use of track pins can look unsightly and lead to uneven rail alignment.

Laying track directly on to the baseboard top and securing it with ballast and adhesive will give you a realistic, loud ‘clickity-clack’ noise as the trains pass over rail joints and points, which may be just what you want to hear. However, there are modellers who prefer smooth running trains that quietly glide along and for that we need cork!

Whatever cork products you choose, the sheets will need cutting to match your trackplan, allowing a few millimetres extra on each side of the tracks and cutting the edges to a chamfer to help with forming the ballast shoulders later.

Rolls of thin cork underlay are available from model shops, while a thicker alternative – great for ‘OO’ and ‘O’ – is cork floor tiles.

**Buy: Cork Tiles Self-Adhesive (1.8 sqm coverage, Pack of 20), £30,** **:a[amazon.co.uk]{href='https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cork-Tiles-Self-Adhesive-1-8-coverage/dp/B00FPL2ETO/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=sl1&amp;tag=subs-affiliatearticle10-21&amp;linkId=9ba3fa7c1671bae46e6e4a6d1cb05182&amp;language=en_GB' target='_blank' rel='noopener noreferrer'}**

Cut the cork tiles with a chamfered edge to help form the ballast shoulders later.

Other alternatives are the integral track systems from the likes of Tillig, that include a plastic ‘ballast’ backing. It allows every section of track to be simply coupled together.

There’s also the option of a pre-coloured and textured foam ballast underlay from manufacturers such as Hornby and Peco. Moulded to accept the sleepers of commercial track products, it can be laid in seconds with no need for painting or ballasting. However, according to the label on some products, the foam will deteriorate after about 20 years.

**Buy: Hornby Hobbies Ltd R638 00 Gauge Underlay Roll, £15.99,** **:a[amazon.co.uk]{href='https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hornby-Hobbies-R638-Gauge-Underlay/dp/B000H5V16U/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=sl1&amp;tag=subs-affiliatearticle10-21&amp;linkId=efb9514b912b6af918c8ec25a40137f8&amp;language=en_GB' target='_blank' rel='noopener noreferrer'}**

## **How to cut rails** {#h-how-to-cut-rails}

There are various tools for cutting rails, ranging from a humble junior hacksaw to a set of handheld shears, such as those offered by Xuron and DCCconcepts. Dave’s preference is a 28mm slitting disc with a diamond-impregnated blade, available from S&M Tools, mounted in a small electric drill. Whatever you use, check the cut is clean and use a file and abrasives to remove any burrs and scratches on the railheads.

**Buy: Xuron 170-II Micro-Shear Flush Cutter, £7.49,** **:a[amazon.co.uk]{href='https://www.amazon.co.uk/Xuron-170-II-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBSFAI/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=sl1&amp;tag=subs-affiliatearticle10-21&amp;linkId=435941b7e39697494c453636f9c0515a&amp;language=en_GB' target='_blank' rel='noopener noreferrer'}\*\*\*\*\_**\_\*\*

Flexible track can be used to give smoother, gentler curves than commercial set track but needs to be cut to take the fishplate joiners.

When using shears, keep the open edge of the jaws to the waste side and the tool perpendicular to the rails for a clean, square cut. In most cases, the sleeper webbing can also be cut at the same time.

The rail edges will require a light dressing with a needle file, ensuring that no burrs remain that will hinder the joiners.

## **How to make the connections** {#h-how-to-make-the-connections}

Fishplates are needed to join the lengths of track together. They may be ready fitted to sectional track such as Peco Setrack, but for flexible track and points you’ll need to buy packs of fishplates separately. To make a good, neat joint, it’s best to remove one or two moulded chairs from the sleepers, thus allowing the fishplate to slide into place without pushing the rails upwards.

**Buy: Peco ST-301 Setrack Radius 2 Starter Track Set, £62.27,** **:a[amazon.co.uk]{href='https://www.amazon.co.uk/Peco-ST-301-Setrack-Radius-Starter/dp/B07JK4F7JL/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=sl1&amp;tag=subs-affiliatearticle10-21&amp;linkId=a01fb45ccbce7fdf2aaa70896c86bc9d&amp;language=en_GB' target='_blank' rel='noopener noreferrer'}**

After cutting the track to length, the plastic chairs from the end sleeper will need cutting away to give the fishplate joiners adequate clearance. Watch your fingers!

Make sure you choose the right fishplates to match your rails, taking note of the rail code. Press a fishplate on to alternate rails on the two sections and gently push them together.

It’s easy to misalign the rails and fishplates, especially on small-scale track, so take a good look to see that the rails are level.

After joining sections of track, always run a couple of items of rolling stock over the joint to test for a smooth ride.

A large gap will appear between the sleepers at the rail joint. However, pairs of sleepers can be cut to fit beneath the rails and joiners. Secure them to the track bed with glue once all of the track has been laid and tested.

Peco ‘O’ gauge track can be joined quickly as the sleepers seldom need modifying. A stronger set of cutting shears is needed, however, or a junior hacksaw employed to trim the rails.

The track will need to be secured to the baseboard somehow, with the most common means being fine track pins, tapped home gently with a small hammer.

Sectional track often has small holes moulded into some of the sleepers for the pins to pass through, but flexible track and points often do not, so a pilot hole needs to be drilled first. You can pin the track every eight to ten inches or so on straight sections, although curves will require more pins spaced closer together in order to maintain the desired geometry.

If you intend to ballast your track, there’s no need to drive the pins all the way home, leaving them standing slightly proud of the sleepers slightly. They can then be removed once the ballast and adhesive has cured fully.

To get your track nice and straight, draw long lines on the underlay or lay the rails alongside a steel rule; this also helps when installing and aligning points.

A tiny jeweller’s hammer is best suited for working with smaller scale track. Hold the pin with pliers to avoid damaging the rails.

**Buy: Kosma Cross Pein Hammer 4 oz Wooden Handle, £5.89,** **:a[amazon.co.uk]{href='https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kosma-Cross-Hammer-Wooden-Handle/dp/B015UC4DLE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=sl1&amp;tag=subs-affiliatearticle10-21&amp;linkId=c1908e6d7b5386e144aed8c495435a3a&amp;language=en_GB' target='_blank' rel='noopener noreferrer'}**

In most cases, the pins need only be inserted temporarily and removed after the ballast has been secured with glue. In this case, the pins are partially tapped home and bent over to press down on the sleepers and allow clearance for stock to run over the track during testing.

Notice board pins are a handy means of positioning any size of track during laying operations, allowing for adjustments to be made to the alignment. Once ballasted and glued, the pins can be removed easily.

As an alternative to track pins, Fleishmann offers packs of small screws. Again, a pilot hole is required, but the screws offer a more resilient bond with the baseboard.

## **How to lay a curved track** {#h-how-to-lay-a-curved-track}

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